Custom Valet Tray made for Lafayette Restaurant and Bakery in 2013.

 

What makes leather so special? Of course it’s durable, can stand up to daily wear and tear, and survive extreme weather. But isn’t the best part of owning a leather belt or wallet how it looks after a couple of years of use? Don’t we love seeing the things we buy become uniquely ours? Here at Billykirk, we strive to create pieces that not only stand the test of time, but get better with age. The marks and scuffs, the discoloration, the quirks that a leather piece picks up throughout its journey all tell a story about its owner, where they’ve gone and how they’ve lived.

Now let’s get down to it: We love natural vegetable-tanned leather. Although they don’t always sell as well as their black and brown-dyed brethren, we continue to offer a natural version of almost every product we make. We’ve always seen it was a critical part of our offering at Billykirk. When it comes to aging gracefully and developing that beautiful patina, nothing performs like well made, natural veg-tanned leather.

 

Photographer Scott Rounds' six-year-old No. 155 Card Case, made with Freeman Transport Bikes (now defunct).

"It's been with me to the hospital, it's seen a couple run-ins with the cops. It has been to the motorcycle races, and sunny days on a blanket in the park. There isn't any other single thing that I've handled and used every day for five years." - Scott

 

Vegetable tanned leather is made using an age-old process that utilizes tannins and ingredients found in plant-life. The most common ingredients are tree barks and leaves, but can even include fruits and roots. The hide’s final color may vary slightly in color, tone, and darkness depending on the mix of materials used in the process. Unlike chrome tanning, which uses a combination of minerals, acids, and carcinogenic salts to tan leather quickly, the vegetable tanning process can take up to 60 days to produce a useable hide.

 

Ben Ferencz's (of FairEnds) No. 109 Skinny Belt. Made in 2008, when we reached out to him confirming this was indeed his belt, he immediately responded with a shot of him wearing it. It's been two years since the above photo was taken, and the belt's looking better than ever.

 

Vegetable tanned leather is made using an age-old process that utilizes tannins and ingredients found in plant-life. The most common ingredients are tree barks and leaves, but can even include fruits and roots. The hide’s final color may vary slightly in color, tone, and darkness depending on the mix of materials used in the process. Unlike chrome tanning, which uses a combination of minerals, acids, and carcinogenic salts to tan leather quickly, the vegetable tanning process can take up to 60 days to produce a useable hide.

The most noticeable trait of newly finished veg-tan leather is its strikingly light color. Because it never dyed, the finished leather tends to be a very light tan or pinkish white and can show marks acquired in the hide during the animal’s life, such as scars or insect bites. These organic markings contribute to the unique aesthetic of each and every natural hide that we use to make a bag, card case, or belt.

 

A new No. 154 Tri-fold Wallet compared to web developer, Chip Cracraft's 2014 wallet.

 

But how does this light, pale material develop that deep, dark brown patina we strive for? The answer is surprisingly simple: Use it! The oils in your hands, the dirt and dust outside, the indigo dye in your jeans, even sunlight itself will all contribute to a great-looking patina over time. Like our own skin, veg-tan leather tends to take on characteristics of its environment. Leave your new natural wallet in the sun for a few hours and that pale white color will quickly turn a golden tan. Rub it down with a little bit of leather conditioner and it will quickly absorb the moisture and darken in color. Establishing this base tan can give your patina significantly more depth and substance as it develops, those differences in use and care are what give natural leather so much character.

While the best way for leather to age is through heavy use, establishing a maintenance schedule for natural leather goods is imperative. Because natural leather is technically “unfinished” and lacks many of the oils and waxes that go into producing dyed leathers, it tends to lose its oil content faster and show wear and tear more dramatically. If neglected, it’s not uncommon to notice natural leather stiffening, cracking, or feeling dry to the touch. To combat this, we recommend periodically cleaning and conditioning your natural leathers with a good conditioner like Skidmore’s. Dry leather will soak up oils and conditioners very quickly, temporarily changing color and becoming noticeably softer and more supple. How often you “feed” your leathers is a matter of personal preference, but even just taking the time once or twice a year should help them last a lifetime.