When it comes to designing great-looking, long-lasting leather goods, no one does it better than U.S.-based accessory label BillyKirk. Founded in 1999 by brothers Christopher and Kirkland Bray, the ruggedly minimalist designs have garnered the label a devoted fan following (ourselves included) in addition to catching the discerning eyes of stockists including Barney’s, Opening Ceremony, BEAMS Japan, Bloomingdale’s, ODIN, Blackbird and more. We had the pleasure of chatting with Chris Bray, one half of BillyKirk (hint: the “Billy” half), to get his take on the brand’s success and find out just how much work goes into producing their high-quality goods.

WATM: Tell us, why did you originally decide to launch Billykirk? Was there anything in particular you felt was missing from the market at the time?

Bray: We always knew we would have a business together and it would be called Billykirk.  I even made Billykirk Designs business cards for Kirk when he graduated with a clothing design degree back in the mid-90’s.  He soon got disillusioned with being an assistant clothing designer and started to get serious with his painting while working part time at a coffee house.  I was toying around with acting and working in real estate.  It was a simple 70’s watch strap from a pawn shop that inspired us to get on this path that we have been on for the last 12 years.

We started with basic cuffs and watch straps because we both had old vintage watches lying around that needed straps.  So, yes at that time we were in the market for replacement straps and the options were pretty limited.  Within a few months of our first trade show in 1999 Fossil, Gucci and others started re-making the wider watch strap.

Interestingly, leather cuffs have a utilitarian origin. Farm workers, cowboys and soldiers used wide leather cuffs for wrist fatigue. Wider style watch straps were also used with watches in WWII, the Australian Outback, Marlon Brando sported them, Elvis wore a wide black one in Jail House Rock, then the hippies wore them, then came the punks, hard rockers and then there was a bit of a lull and that’s when we crept onto the scene.  This wide watch strap trend seems to have a fairly cyclical life and will no doubt be back soon enough.

WATM: When it comes to designing accessories, what would you say is the most challenging aspect of the business?

Bray: Making our product in the USA since 1999 and trying to source hardware and materials here can be a daunting challenge.  It’s a damn shame that all so many mills, tanneries and metal foundries have had to shut their doors. It’s almost unconceivable.  In the last 12 years we have had a number of vendors either close down completely or have downsized to a fraction of their previous size. One of our metal findings vendors is basically down to making cabinet hardware.

WATM: How would you describe your customer? What do you think the Billykirk guy is looking for in a bag?

Bray: Discerning, intelligent and passionate.  We just participated in the Pop Up Flea sale again in NYC and it was incredible and quite humbling to witness scores of guys who know so much about leather craft and leather.  This wasn’t that way a couple of years ago.  Guys used to simply ask for a leather belt now they want to know where the leather is from, what type it is and what ounce it is.  Our booth space was next to the friendly chaps of Oak Street Bootmakers and they were getting questions about mid soles and Goodyear welting.  This is truly the era of the informed male consumer.

Our consumer is against anything that calls attention to their bag, belt or wallet.  There are no bells and whistles and unnecessary embellishments and trims on our goods.  We even patina our silver and brass hardware so it doesn’t shine.  Over the years it has become very evident that our customer simply wants their item to function and wear in well but not be the focus of attention.  In the end our product will blend into the person and simply become an extension of them.  It’s no different than a pair of old jeans or boots.  A well worn bag or satchel becomes comforting, respected and dear to the user. When that sort of appreciation is established then you have an advocate for life.

WATM: How important is U.S.-based manufacturing to you (as opposed to producing your goods overseas)?

Bray: When Kirk and I started envisioning our company in 1998 U.S. based manufacturing wasn’t even a question.  We knew we were going to be producing our stuff in the USA because we were going to be the ones making it all.  When we were finally able to have our own factory we hired all sorts of workers and trained them.  When we left DT Los Angeles for the East Coast in 2005 we had to re-think our production as we were steadily growing. Again, we didn’t even think for a second we would out-source our production. Remember, we don’t have greedy shareholders breathing down our necks squeezing out every penny.  Luckily I had a business colleague who worked with the Amish in PA and after a few face to face meetings with the Amish group they were able to take on the majority of our small leather goods production.

Being able to control quality, materials and production is paramount for our brand and while other countries like England, Japan, Italy and Canada can produce great leather and canvas items the high shipping costs, duties, taxes, sourcing obstacles and level of production oversight just isn’t there.

China and the like are just not worth talking about because they are in the mass production business where things are made cheaply and not meant to last.  “Low costs to justify longevity” is a sad, unfortunate trap that too many consumers get sucked into.  Sure, they may get that short lived sense of satisfaction of getting a good deal but in the long run it’s yet another item for the land fill.  That’s not what the Billykirk’s ethos is about – we want the consumer to get decades of good use out of their purchase and then pass it down through the generations.  In fact, in the last couple of years I have had a number of fathers buy things with that very intention.  Some have even asked me to include a small note made out to their sons or daughters who will eventually inherit the item.  That sort of connection is what keeps us excited and knowing we are on the right track.

WATM: Being brothers, do you tend to have similar tastes preferences or do you find yourselves bickering over design and aesthetics?

Bray: For the most part we share the same sort of design aesthetics when designing new looks for Billykirk.  I would say that I lean more towards the pasts while Kirk leans more towards the future.  That element has helped give us the necessary balance and harmony to co-exist on a daily basis for nearly 13 years.

WATM: Can you give us an idea of what’s to come for Billykirk in 2012? Are there any special projects you can tell us about?

Bray: I am really fond of our denim and Horween leather laptop bags and carryalls we have coming out for Spring 2012.  We paired an olive denim with black leather, a dark denim with brown leather and a faded blue denim with a British tan leather.  We also added a zip pocket to the outside of all our carryalls which has been a long time coming.

We just completed the first installment of our Hudson’s Bay Co. Carryall collaboration.  It’s just hitting the shelves now and that has been a very cool experience for us.  We are planning a trip up there in the new year to see some of their archives.  They are such a storied brand and one of the oldest in North America.  When I was selling vintage clothing and antiques on Ebay a decade or so ago I came across a lot of their iconic 5 Point blankets but could never part with them. Well-made, understated and great to use.  That sort of embodies what Billykirk is all about as well.